Of all the American towns and small cities I have ever had much to do with, two stand out as interesting hybrids of America and the European homeland… well, three if you count Savannah, the other two being Santa Fe, and Fredericksburg. All three are, to be honest, a little self-consciously touristic with the charms, a touch too dressy for the occasion and location… but charming.
Fredericksburg is the smallest and the least-known of these three, and of course it is the one I am the most familiar with, although there are other Hill Country towns just as pleasant— Comfort, Wimberley, Kerrville— tucked into the limestone hills and steep valleys braided with that dear commodity in South Texas— clear, cold streams of water. William and I sat in a small courtyard this last weekend, sharing a bakery cinnamon roll, and marveling at how it had a definitely European feel— a sort of cloisterish ambiance, sheltering buildings along four sides, well and fountain in the middle, nice comfortable benches, stone paths and all… but three of the sheltering buildings around this small courtyard were the generic Texas clapboard and metal-roofed structures, only the fourth building had any claim to stone and mortar permanence.
My mother always said, after visiting the Hill Country, that it looked more like Pennsylvania… not just geographically, all rolling hills and oak treks… but because it was settled by the same sort of people; stolid Anglo-Saxon or Germanic farmers, devoted to hard work but the higher things as well…learning, free-thinking and libraries being amongst them.
The public library in the town of Fredericksburg is on Main Street, right next to the Gillespie County Courthouse, on an open green square— the Marketplatz that is the heart of town. The police and fire departments have a building along one side, most of the old, major churches are not far away, the Pioneer Museum and the Pacific War museum are in walking distance, and one can happily while away an afternoon just walking around and looking at lovely old houses, and shops and sampling local foods and wines. I have done so many times, since I moved to this area ten years ago; William is very fond of the place, and it is only an hour or so drive from my house; we drive up in the springtime, enjoying the fields of wildflowers on the hillsides and highway verge, and a nice meal and meander through some of the shops. (William also takes the opportunity to check out any interesting developments at the War Museum. He is a docent and man of all trades at an air museum on the West Coast— and it is always good to see what is going on in the field.)
The library presents a most arresting appearance— pure and lavish late 19th Century Beaux Arts style, all porches and tall windows, steep-domed towers, ornate iron lacework along the roof ridges and balconies— the whole effect being something that one can imagine would be the Addams’ Family local public library branch. It is all the more amusing, since the courthouse next door is one of those severely 1930ies Moderne efforts, like a table radio of the era, made large. I’ve never been inside either building, but I just know that the courthouse has WPA murals and industrial linoleum floors, and both of the buildings must and should have those heavy, blond oak tables and chairs that used to be an institutional staple before Bauhaus-style clubbed us all over the head and left us all aesthetically the poorer for it. But the library… ah, the library must have something more special.
It must have shelves, and shelves of books, and not on those nasty modern industrial metal-grade bookshelves that dent as soon as you look at them, with shoddy adjustable shelves. No, the Fredericksburg Public Library should have heavy, bespoke built-in shelves, as solid and permanent as the building itself, none of those laminate moveable shelves that will begin to sag after a decade or two under the weight of books and books, and books, and more books. This library should have odd little nooks and corners, with window seats and carrels built into them, where a child could curl up with a book and become lost in another world for hours, given access to a place where every volume is a doorway and a passport to that magic land of imagination. Such a perfect place to read, and read and read, all those wonderful worlds accessed through books.
I told William that the Fredericksburg Public Library would be the perfect venue for a kids’ adventure book. It looks from the outside as if it could contain every one of those elements for a perfectly ripping yarn, juvenile division. A secret room, or hidden passageway, a benevolent ghost, a hidden treasure, a mystery… a story that should encompass friendship and adventure and a sense of the wonderful things that lurk just beyond this all too prosaic world… things that are just barely imaginable just beyond the doorway of a place like the Fredericksburg Public Library… or any other public library, any other town in this seemingly unimpressive but potentially magical world of ours.
Or, at the very least, a sad-faced orangutan in the back stacks, saying “ook” softly.
Had to laugh at your description of the courthouse. Until I returned to sea, I worked at the US District Court in Seattle, which was in one of those blocky WPA buildings. Yes, it had a mural, too. Something about Justice enlightening Labor or some such Socialist crap.
But the building always reminded me of the one in Men in Black, that housed the elevator to the MIB HQ. I always regretted not meeting Agents Jay and Kay.
But given the neuralizer, perhaps I did.
Were you aware that one of Fredericksburg’s most famous sons was Fleet Admiral Chester Nimitz.
Ummm… yes. It’s kind of hard to escape that, when visiting. Part of the Pacific War museum is housed in his Grandfather’s hotel, which is right on the main street… and his childhood home is in fact, the place where we shared a cinnamon roll and admired the look of the courtyard.
It was at that war museum that I first began to learn more about the War in the Pacific – I had always been more interested in the European battles, when I could interest myself in WWII at all (as a youngster, I much preferred horses to tanks and airplanes).
As my tour in Belgium birthed my interest in WWII, so did my first visit to F’burg, and the Museum there, birth my interest in the Pacific Theatre of that war.
And isn’t that, after all, what a museum *should* do?
Well atleast we could pay the librian in bananas, an I’m sure after years at the Unseen Univercity a ghost or two won’t bother him.
Thanks for that excellent description. We are planning to be in the Hill country starting on Thursday and maybe a trip to Fredricksburgh is in order. Well, actually I plan to visit the Wildflower Farm but now I want to see that library. We’ve been there many times to visit the war museum but never, ever noticed or thought about visiting the library, even though we do that when we are traveling cross country and have seen many while checking our email.
Now we have a laptop with wireless so we’ll probably see less libraries.
Have you seen the library in Ft. Davis? It is wonderful, an older building used as a library, but original floors, ceilings, etc. A Great place to visit.